There is nothing quite like the anticipation of a trip to a new destination, and this was especially true of my recent adventure to the Azores.
This trip involved a number of “firsts.” It was our first time visiting the Azores, an archipelago in the middle of the Atlantic that boasts stunning natural beauty and a unique cultural heritage.
It was our first flight in 2023 (hard to believe we’d gone 5 months without stepping on a plane!). It was also our first domestic vacation by air since starting our expat life in Portugal.
Despite our excitement to embark on this trip, we couldn’t control the weather, and we found ourselves facing a forecast of rain, wind, and fog on São Miguel, the largest island in the Azores.
But as it turned out, there were plenty of fun things to do on São Miguel Island, rain or shine. Here are 10 of our favorite activities to make the most of a rainy day on the island.
Getting to São Miguel
São Miguel, the largest of the Azorean islands, is located in the mid-Atlantic and is easily accessible from many parts of Europe and the United States. Here are some of the ways to get to São Miguel:
From Lisbon: As we learned on our trip, Ryanair flies from Terminal 2 in Lisbon. Simply follow the signs from the Metro and catch the free bus from Terminal 1. The journey takes about 3 minutes, and the bus promises a maximum 12-minute wait.
From points in Europe: There are many flights available to São Miguel from various points in Europe. Airlines such as TAP Portugal, Ryanair, and Azores Airlines offer direct flights from cities like London, Amsterdam, and Frankfurt.
From the U.S.: If you’re traveling from the United States, you can fly to São Miguel via TAP Portugal from major cities such as New York, Boston, and Miami. You can also take a connecting flight from Lisbon.
From other islands in the Azores: If you’re already in the Azores, you can take a short flight to São Miguel from other islands like Terceira or Pico.
Regardless of how you get to São Miguel, be sure to take in the views on the way. During our flight from Lisbon, we were treated to stunning vistas of the Vasco da Gama Bridge, a silo painted with a smiley face, and the rugged coastline dotted with clouds.
What is the Weather Like in São Miguel
The weather in São Miguel can be quite unpredictable, with rain and fog a very real possibility. Your best shot for sunny weather is if you plan your trip in the summer. According to HolidayWeather.com, São Miguel is most likely to be sunny and warm in July and August.
During our visit in April, we encountered a lot of fog and wind, especially at the more scenic parts of the island. Even when it wasn’t raining, the thick fog made it difficult to see more than a few feet in front of us. However, the island’s lush greenery was still beautiful, and we couldn’t help but feel like we were back in Ireland.
It’s important to check the weather forecast before planning any outdoor activities, especially if you’re venturing outside of Ponta Delgada. Fortunately, the tourist office in Ponta Delgada shared a helpful tool with us to make this easier.
They pointed us to SpotAzores.com, a site with live webcams set up around the island, which can give you a real-time look at the weather conditions across São Miguel.
One thing we noticed during our trip is that the humidity in the Azores, especially in April, is incredibly high. With relative humidity levels exceeding 95%, it felt sticky and clothes and towels didn’t dry easily.
What’s that they say about “best laid plans”? We intended to take a drive to see some of the beautiful miradouros on São Miguel and take a hike.
It became clear as we drove uphill that the weather gods were not on our side that day. It wasn’t raining, but the fog was thick and I was concerned about driving safely on the winding roads in these conditions, so we turned back.
We made a second attempt to visit some of the famous miradouros on São Miguel. Unfortunately, once again the fog and wind prevented us from seeing much at all. We should have known this would be the case based on the gray screen we encountered on the web cam for Sete Cidades.
It was only a 30-minute drive to the area and we hoped that perhaps the webcam was just broken since the gray screen was the only thing we’d seen as we monitored the weather in that area. Nope! The weather on the web cam was accurate.
However, we did stop at Carvão Wall, which was at the edge of the fog line and protected from the wind which was fascinating. It’s part of an aqueduct system built in the 1830s to supply water to Ponta Delgada. The fast-moving fog added an eerie and atmospheric feel to the whole experience.
What to Pack for a Trip to São Miguel
When planning a trip to São Miguel, it’s important to pack appropriately for the weather and activities you have planned. As we discovered on our trip, the weather can be unpredictable, so it’s best to be prepared for all eventualities.
We had plans to go hiking, so we wore our hiking boots on the flight to save space in our luggage. However, we had to take them off at security, and we were pleasantly surprised when Lisbon Airport provided us with plastic foot covers to keep our socks clean.
One essential item to pack for a trip to São Miguel is a rain jacket. The island is known for its rainy weather, and it’s not uncommon to experience rain showers or even storms throughout the day. An umbrella can be helpful, but could be savaged by the wind.
Another tip for packing for São Miguel is to bring quick-drying layers. The humidity on the island can make it feel damp, and clothes may not dry easily.
Having quick-drying layers can make it easier to stay comfortable. With these items in your luggage, you’ll be ready to explore the island no matter what the weather brings.
Where to Stay in São Miguel
There are some hotel options in Ponta Delgada, but during our trip, we opted to stay in an Airbnb called Ti Maria Holiday Apartments on Rua do Laureano, situated on the eastern side of Ponta Delgada, just outside the historic core. We found this location to be perfect for our needs.
Not only was it within walking distance of the historic core, but it also provided reasonable options for free on-street parking, which was a big plus.
Additionally, the location allowed us to avoid the extremely narrow streets that can be found in the center of Ponta Delgada, making it easier to navigate around the city with our rental car.
Things to do in São Miguel in Detail
Now let’s deep dive into these things to do on São Miguel when the weather is inclement.
1. Take a Harbor Walk, but Keep to the Covered Paths
Strolling along the harbor in São Miguel is a great way to take in the fresh sea air coming in off the Atlantic Ocean and enjoy the charming atmosphere of this historic city. However, when the weather is unpredictable, it’s best to stick to the covered areas around the cruise port. You don’t want to get caught in the rain and spoil the fun.
During our evening walk, we were pleasantly surprised by a break in the clouds that allowed a beautiful pink sunset glow to shine through. It was a truly magical experience.
Our Airbnb hosts recommended Stages for dinner, and we were not disappointed. This casual and cozy restaurant with some covered outdoor tables offers a variety of seafood dishes made with fresh, locally sourced ingredients.
We highly recommend trying the Azorean forkbeard, a type of hake, and the grilled squid. To top off the meal, we enjoyed a bottle of Portuguese wine from the Dão region.
Azorean wines are some of the most expensive in Portugal and may cost double the price of a mainland Portuguese wine, so we opted for a mainland wine on our first night to save money.
2. Go to an Azorean Supermarket
When it rains in São Miguel, one great thing to do is head to an Azorean supermarket. Supermarkets are a great place to experience local life and find unique products to bring back home as souvenirs.
We visited Sol Mar in Ponta Delgada, which had a wide variety of local cheeses, wines, and liqueurs. One of the most popular products is the local pineapple, which is known for its unique taste and quality.
We also found that the prices were very reasonable, with bottles of Azorean wine selling for just 10–12 EUR, which is a fraction of what you would pay for a bottle of wine in a restaurant or bar.
So, if you’re looking for a fun and budget-friendly activity on a rainy day, spend a couple of hours at an Azorean supermarket exploring the local products on offer.
3. Take a Walk Through the Streets and Gardens of Ponta Delgada
The good thing about the weather in São Miguel is that if you don’t like what’s happening outside, wait 5 minutes and it will change.
The rain let up a little around midday so we took a walk into Ponta Delgada.
One thing we loved about Ponta Delgada was the calçadas portuguesas – the traditional Portuguese pavement made of small, flat stones. In Ponta Delgada, the sidewalks featured sea themes. The pavement is reasonably even so I was less worried about turning my ankle like I did at the Óbidos chocolate festival.
The biggest issue in Ponta Delgada is that the sidewalks are very narrow and you could get dinged by a passing car on many streets.
We wandered through the streets of Ponta Delgada, admiring the architecture and soaking in the atmosphere.
Eventually, we arrived at Jardim Botânico António Borges, a beautiful garden with small caves and palm fronds to duck under as you explore.
Afterward, we followed the calçadas portuguesas labeled JC and found ourselves at the entrance to Jardim Botânico José do Canto.
The entrance fee is 5 EUR per adult, and the beautiful calçadas portuguesas lead you to the garden. The garden is a must-see, with colorful flowers and a rose garden that seemed like it had been left to re-wild.
Don’t miss the blue and white azulejo panels by Luisa Pinto Leite that describe events in Azorean history. You can also visit Ermida de Sant’Ana for free from inside the botanical gardens – the chapel is a lovely spot for quiet reflection.
You could also take a walk anchored around Forte de São Brás, an imposing fort in Ponta Delgada. Walk from here towards Ponta Delgada’s iconic Portas da Cidade, the three-arched city gates that date back to the 18th century.
4. Visit Mercado da Graça
If you’re looking for a break from the rain or just want to do some indoor shopping, Mercado da Graça is a great option. We found ourselves taking refuge here when the rain started up again. The market is located in Ponta Delgada and offers an array of products, from fresh produce to souvenirs.
One of the highlights of our visit was a stop at O Rei dos Queijos, a cheese shop within the market. We picked up some green tea cookies and a hot sauce meant for fresh cheese, both of which were delicious. The market is also a fun place to browse and soak up the local atmosphere.
Don’t forget to head below ground to the fruit and vegetable area at Mercado da Graça. Here, we found a good deal on Azorean pineapples, which are known for their sweetness and flavor.
We were able to snag two for just 5 EUR. It’s definitely worth checking out this section of the market to see what local produce is available.
5. Visit Some of the Churches in Ponta Delgada
Dash between the raindrops and explore the beautiful churches of São Miguel.
We checked out some of Ponta Delgada’s historic sites including the Santuário do Senhor Santo Cristo dos Milagres, which provides a view into Convento de Nossa Senhora da Esperança–home to the largest religious festival in the Azores, and draws many pilgrims.
We also visited 16th-century Igreja Matriz de São Sebastião, which is a spectacular church both inside and out. We were particularly impressed by the elegant chandeliers that illuminated the church, and the impressive doors caught our eye.
We ducked into Ermida da São Brás, a small 16th century chapel. We enjoyed admiring the textures of the calçadas portuguesas combined with various shop windows. We even chanced upon an informal photo exhibit in an old shopping arcade nearby.
Make time for a visit to charming Igreja de São Pedro. We were impressed by the pastel ceiling and wall nooks, and spotted a silver crown sitting inside a reliquary, although the provenance and significance of it was unclear.
Overall, exploring the churches of Ponta Delgada was a great way to spend a rainy afternoon.
6. Grab a Drink Inside
If you find yourself caught in the rain in Ponta Delgada, don’t worry – there are plenty of great places to take shelter and enjoy a drink. One option is Cantinho dos Anjos, a vibrant spot where we rested our legs and sampled a large glass of local beer for less than 2 EUR.
Another option is Wine & Art, where we splurged on a glass of Azorean white wine for around 10 EUR, along with fresh cheese, pepper sauce, bread, and a bowl of nuts. It was the perfect way to unwind after a long day of exploring Ponta Delgada in the rain.
And if you’re looking for a view to go along with your drink, be sure to check out Provisório Bar, where you can enjoy cheap and cheerful 4 EUR cocktails while sitting under an umbrella and taking in the views of the harbor.
So don’t let a little rain stop you from enjoying all that São Miguel has to offer – grab a drink inside and make the most of your time on this beautiful island.
7. Tour Plantação de Ananás dos Açores
When life gives you lemons and you’re in the Azores, turn them into pineapples!
If you’re looking for a fun and educational activity on a rainy day in São Miguel, be sure to visit Plantação de Ananás dos Açores! This Azorean pineapple plantation is just a short walk away from where we were staying and was open even on a national holiday in Portugal.
The plantation offers a free self-guided tour, where you can scan barcodes in the greenhouses to learn about pineapple production in the Azores. We were fascinated to learn that pineapples are grown in greenhouses using a labor-intensive, three-stage planting process that takes two years to bear fruit (pun intended ).
After our tour, we headed to the bar tent for a free tasting of pineapple liqueur and jam. We also ordered some items from the pineapple-themed menu, including pineapple caipirinhas and a dessert of pineapples flambéed in rum and cinnamon, served with vanilla ice cream.
The total cost was 17 EUR, which we thought was good value given the size and strength of the drinks and the effort involved in making the dessert dish.
Just a warning, though – the sugar overload can be a bit much; you’ll definitely be in the mood for something savory to eat afterward!
8. Drive to Furnas Even If The Weather is Bad
Even if the weather doesn’t cooperate, Furnas is a reasonable day trip to attempt from Ponta Delgada in the rain.
As we headed toward Furnas and the volcanic core of São Miguel island we stopped at a viewpoint by Vila Franca do Campo where we could see Ilhéu de Vila Franca which was formed by the crater of a submerged volcano. The protected lake is popular with visitors.
We took a short but slightly harrowing steep, uphill drive to Ermida Nossa Senhora da Paz, a 16th-century chapel rebuilt in 1764.
The 10 landings represent the Lord’s Prayers of the Joyful and the Sorrowful Mysteries, and the steps represent Hail Marys (Combined this is 2/3 of a rosary).
The chapel itself at the top of the steps is modest, but the views are amazing. There is also a bathroom at the top which is useful on a road trip.
As we drove onward up and over the hills towards Lagoa das Furnas (Furnas Lake), the fog started to take hold. We were disappointed that we couldn’t see much of the lake, but we decided to make the most of our trip and walked from the parking lot along the lake to the Monitoring and Research Center of Furnas.
For just 3 EUR per person, we were able to watch a short video about the geothermal characteristics of the area and see exhibits on the work they are doing to restore the health of the lake, which had been degraded by farming and pesticides.
We learned that Furnas Volcano is one of the three central active volcanoes on São Miguel and was formed about 30,000 years ago. Significant eruptions occurred in the mid 15th and 16th century.
Next, we drove to Antigo Pomar das Caldeiras da Lagoa das Furnas, where we paid a 3 EUR per person entry fee as we drove in (entrance is free if you live on São Miguel). We parked and walked around the boardwalks of boiling mud and fumaroles, which we thought was a little pricey for what it was.
However, it was interesting to see the holes where the volcanic cozido, a traditional Portuguese stew made from meat, vegetables, and other ingredients buried for seven hours, is made.
We continued our journey into Furnas, where we parked on the street and strolled through Jardim da Alameda. We were delighted to see Cascata e Aquário das Furnas, a flower-lined waterfall that was a highlight of our day trip. There was also a small outdoor aquarium nearby.
As we walked towards the church in Furnas, we spotted an upside-down house, which was a fun surprise. We then sought out Padaria Glória Moniz for a coffee and a Queijada das Furnas, a sweet cheese pastry topped with a coating of powdered sugar.
Despite the heavy rain and a seemingly endless detour due to road construction, we were determined to visit the popular Poça da Dona Beija natural thermal pools in Furnas.
We paid 8 EUR pp for 90 minutes and 4 EUR to rent a towel and 2 EUR for a locker. A cold shower was free, but it costs 1 EUR for 5 minutes if you want hot water. There were five different pools filled with rust-colored minerals lining a central channel, and we staked out a spot under a waterfall.
The pools varied in depth from 60 cm to 130 cm, and the temperature was 39°C across the board. Despite the chilly air, we felt fine walking between the pools.
9. Eat Local Azorean Specialties
If you’re looking for unique dining experiences in São Miguel, be sure to try some of the restaurants in São Miguel. You won’t be disappointed with the delicious flavors and unique ingredients that are used in the dishes.
You can dine indoors which makes these culinary experiences a great idea to add to your list of things in São Miguel when it rains.
Here are some of the highlights of our dining experiences in São Miguel.
Michel’s Restaurant
We had a dinner reservation at Michel’s Restaurant, where we were able to sample some of the best local Azorean specialties. To start, we enjoyed limpets and garlic bread. Limpets, also known as lapas, are a type of sea snail that taste similar to a rubbery mussel (it’s better than it sounds…)
For our mains, we had rare tuna in sesame and a pote de mar, which is a seafood stew that reminded me of a pot pie. Both dishes were filling and packed with flavor.
For dessert, we saved room for pineapple liqueur and pineapple mousse.
A Terra at Octant Hotel
A Terra at the Octant Hotel is another good choice for dinner. The large windows facing the sea make this an ideal restaurant to book into around the time the sun sets.
We started with a couvert that included warm bread, seaweed butter, fresh Azorean cheese with pepper jam, and pork rillette, which is a soft meat spread.
Next we enjoyed a fennel and maracuja salad, followed by beef cheeks with pureed sweet potatoes and beans with chorizo. The catch of the day was blackbelly, served with a red crab bread pudding that was surprisingly delicious.
Ice Cream Break!
Another great food-focused rainy day activity is to stop for ice cream and coffee at La Gelateria in Ponta Delgada. I tried pineapple sorbet and ice cream made from Massa Sovada (sweet Azorean bread). It really hit the spot given the high humidity that accompanied the rain.
10. Museu Carlos Machado
The Museu Carlos Machado is a must-visit destination for history buffs and those who appreciate art and natural history. The museum is housed in three buildings in Ponta Delgada and features a diverse collection of exhibits.
One of the most striking features of the museum is the stunning facade of the Igreja do Colégio dos Jesuítas in Ponta Delgada, which is a sight to behold. The Núcleo de Arte Sacra, the first building of the museum, features a Jesuit church with a beautifully carved wooden altar and historic paintings that are worth admiring.
One theme that connects all three buildings of Museu Carlos Machado is the extensive collection of taxidermy which is a highlight of the museum. I found the displays of birds to be particularly captivating, and it’s fascinating to see so many different species up close.
Part of the museum is located in a historic convent with strict rules separating the sisters from outsiders. Visitors can learn about the convent’s past and view the small iron door used during the Holy Communion.
“On the wall between the Sisters and the chapel or church, let there be a strong grille with fine iron bars, secured and filled with sharp nails to the outside and must there be a pierced iron blade with many small holes, with sharp nails, as said; in the middle, let there also be a small iron door, through which at the time of the Holy Communion may pass the chalice and through which the Priest may put his hand and administer the Blessed Sacrament of the Body of the Lord” ESPELHO de Perfeytas Religiozas. Exposição da Segunda Regra de S. Clara, 1718.
The third building of the museum featured a temporary exhibit on Prince Albert of Monaco’s visit to the Azores on his yacht for scientific exploration. The exhibit provides insight into the prince’s fascination with marine biology and his contribution to ocean conservation.
Don’t forget to check out the bust of Prince Albert on the waterfront in Ponta Delgada.
Admission to the Museu Carlos Machado is 3 EUR per building or 5 EUR for a combo ticket to all three buildings. The museum is a great place to spend a rainy day in São Miguel, immersing yourself in the rich cultural and natural history of the Azores.
Is São Miguel Worth Visiting in April?
I have mixed feelings about our visit to São Miguel in April. There are generally fewer tourists around, which means less crowding at popular sites and a more relaxed atmosphere overall. However, the weather can be unpredictable, so you need to resign yourself to the fact that it is likely to rain.
It’s worth noting that the island does see an influx of visitors in April due to Transatlantic Repositioning Cruises, which can bring in thousands of people at a time.
However, we found that even with these large ships in port, the town of Ponta Delgada didn’t feel too crowded or overwhelming, particularly in the mid-afternoon when most of the passengers had re-boarded the ship.
Despite the potential for rain, I don’t regret visiting São Miguel in April. The island has so much to offer in terms of natural beauty, culture, and history, and the quieter, more relaxed atmosphere of the off-season is more my style.
It’s also cheaper to visit at this time of year because there is less competition for flights, hotels, and rental cars.
Just be prepared to make a return trip to São Miguel during the summer if the weather doesn’t cooperate and you don’t get to see all the places on your wishlist.
Of course, you can always hedge your bets and combine a couple of Azorean islands on your itinerary to maximize your chances of encountering decent weather. We went to Sao Miguel and Terceira on this trip and the weather on Terceira was much better.
Where to Next?
Did you enjoy this post about things to do in São Miguel in the Azores when the weather is bad? Sharing is caring…